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If your downspout disappears into the ground, it is most likely incorrectly connected to the public sanitary system. To prevent stormwater from flooding the sanitary sewer system, these downspouts should be redirected into your yard so that the water is allowed to seep into the ground. It is best to direct the water away from your home so that it does not puddle along the walls. Click here for a downloadable version of our "Downspout Disconnect" guide.
Materials needed:
- Hacksaw
- Hammer and nails
- Screwdriver
- Sheet metal screws
- Pliers
- Tape measure
- Rivet gun and rivets
- Shovel
- Drill
- Plug (to cap clay tile) or cement mix
- Downspout bracket
- Downspout elbow
- Discharge device (Hinged discharge device, Rolled-up plastic discharge device, Splash block, Flexible hose, Downspout section)
Steps:
- Cut the downspout with a hacksaw about 9 inches above the sewer standpipe. Break clay tile to about 1 foot below ground.
- Cap the sewer standpipe with either a rubber or plastic cap or with mortar. If using a rubber or plastic cap, be sure to measure the standpipe to ensure that you get the right size cap. If using cement, stuff a ball of crumpled newspaper at least 4 inches into the standpipe and seal the hole with cement. Be sure not to let any of the cement go past the newspaper ball—it can clog the sewer pipe.
- Fill the hole with dirt; slope the soil away from the house.
- Secure a downspout bracket to the house with screws or nails.
- Attach an elbow to the downspout using sheet metal screws or a clip. Pinch in the ends of the downspout to ensure a good fit.
- Attach the elbow to the discharge device. Water should drain away from the house.
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